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My 1975 17' has a rotten transome. Need advice.

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  • My 1975 17' has a rotten transome. Need advice.

    Hello. My 17' 1975 Glasply that I've had for about 14 years has rot in the transom. I'm going to have to dig it out and replace it. I replaced the deck and stringers when i bought it, so I think it's worth the effort. Does anyone have suggestions on the most effective process. I've replaced a transom on a small fiberglass sailing dingy as well as other wood and fiberglass boat projects. I'm not afraid to cut up fiberglass and put it back together. I could also cut and dry fit aluminum (then hire a welder), if that makes sense.
    There are also a couple of modifications I'm thinking of, since I'm going to start cutting stuff up. I'd like to raise the stern, since my motor has a longer shaft than what was original. I'd also like to remove the splash area in the back to expose more deck space.
    If anyone has advice on how to do this the "right" way, and also straighten me out if my plans for changes don't make sense, I'd appreciate the feedback.

    Thanks
    Mike

  • #2
    Hi Mike, Welcome to the forum! Do you have pics of your 17? There have been several members who have performed transom repairs. I believe Nova has done some nice transom work on a setup similar to yours...

    Regards,

    Will
    Will Riddle
    Everett, WA.

    Confidence is what you feel before you truly understand the situation...

    Comment


    • #3
      I'll try to get some pictures today. I started tearing into it. I cut the splash guard out, and the deck about 3 feet up from the stern, as there was rot. My current plan is to raise the transom up to the height of the sides, and put a bracket on the back to hold the engine. Is there anyone around that makes brackets for outboards?

      Thanks
      Mike

      Comment


      • #4
        Where are you located? There are many fab shops who have experience building brackets for boats. I'd recommend pooderbuilt in Bellingham if you can afford one of his. If you need one a little less check out d and d marine. Depending on what you want out of the bracket there are some basic brackets around for about 750. If you want a swim step they go for about 1200. Also depending on what type of fishing you like the porta brackets are great for shallow waters. http://www.portaproducts.com/index.p...=porta-bracket

        What are you going to use for the transom? Also check the stringers real good before you invest too much time and money in it. Keep us posted on the progress

        Comment


        • #5
          Are you not the same Rooster that has the 19' cuddy with a bracket on it?
          1981 Hardtop Cuddy Alaskan Bulkhead Rebuild Thread
          1972 HT Cuddy-Rebuild Thread
          8' 650cc Kawasaki powered dinghy

          Comment


          • #6
            Nope. Different guy.
            -- Tim Taylor

            1979 Glasply 21-foot I/O Overnighter w/ 5.0L Volvo-Penta duoprop (Cardinal)
            1982 Glasply 16-foot runabout w/ 50hp Mercury OB (JV Junior)
            1978 Glasply 19-1/2 foot runabout, project boat (Beer Goggles)


            You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.

            Comment


            • #7
              OK. At this point, I've cut the deck out about three feet from the transom. I've cut the stringers out about a foot up from the transom all the way down to the hull. I had rebuild the stringers 14 years ago, but the rot from the transom started working it's way forward. Given that boating season is here, I'm starting to look at craigslist to find something that will work for the summer. I don't want to race through this project.
              Anyone know of a 19 or 21 foot glasply outboard runabout for sale? I have a two year old evenrude, so don't necessarily need a motor on it.
              Thanks
              Mike

              Comment


              • #8
                http://www.glasply.org/vb4/showthrea...nd%29-x0024-17

                If this boat is a 77 or newer it could be a great value and get you on the water. I dont think it is because of the splashwell not being molded in but worth checking

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think it's pre-'74 based on the dash and two-piece window.
                  Fusion Splice
                  GP2100,19-9ft, 2.6l V6 Loop Charged Johnson,
                  0-60 in 3.4 gallons

                  The price of the boat is just the down payment on a lifestyle.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    What's wrong with pre 74? Wood stringers? anything else?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yup on the 19's and smaller in 77 and on I've seen only fiberglass stringers. I'm not sure on the 74 year but I'm thinking nphilbro knows that they had the 2 piece windshields where 75 on must have the 3 piece with the center window opening.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm not exactly sure of the year since the lit. is a bit fuzzy, but it points to early '70's. The dash is the same as many of the 17' plys out there and the it's the same color green as the used fridge my parents' first house came with in 1973. The motor and trailer alone would make it a decent deal if they checked out ok. I don't know mercs, but the 135 might be a bit underpowered for a 19'. I wouldn't go any less than a 150 V6 in OMC /BRP (for 2S, anyway) to keep it slightly economical to cruise with.
                        Fusion Splice
                        GP2100,19-9ft, 2.6l V6 Loop Charged Johnson,
                        0-60 in 3.4 gallons

                        The price of the boat is just the down payment on a lifestyle.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I checked out the 19 footer in Freeland. It's got to be early 70s if not older. The fellow that owns it had replaced the floor himself with a friend a couple of years ago. He couldn't give much detail on exactly what they used. Epoxy, polyester resin, other? He also could not explain what types/weights of glass they used. That left me a little unsure of what was under the deck. It felt solid, but it left me just unsure enough. The motor would turn over from spinning the gear on top of the engine. The prop felt kind of crunchy when I tried turning it, but I don't know if that means anything. He said it had relatively few hours on it. It might start right up and be fine, but I'm not in the adventurous mood right now. The trailer seemed good. This is more of a project boat than I'm looking for. It's probably a good enough deal if the motor is OK.

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                          • #14
                            I'm to the point where I need to buy the plywood for replacing the transom on the 17 footer. I'm raising the stern since the motor I have has a longer shaft. I'm also not going to replace the full splash guard in order to have more deck space. Does anyone have suggestions on the kind of plywood I should use, and how thick?

                            Thanks
                            Mike

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I would use marine plywood, either in 1/2" or 3/4" thickness depending on how thick your transom is. I built a swim platform using 1/2" marine with 3 layers and the middle layer being "swiss cheesed" to reduce weight. If you're replacing the whole transom you could use 3 layers of 3/4" for a 2.25" thick transom. What ever you do, be sure to glue and seal all the layers well.
                              "Joint Venture" 1978 midcabin 28', twin 2017 Vortec roller cam "bullet proof" 383/6.3L full roller 350hp engines - You name it, I've either replaced it, restored it, rebuilt it, repainted it or repaired it. That's my job now that I'm retired.

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