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81 28' Long Cabin work in progress

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  • 81 28' Long Cabin work in progress

    Now that she's home it's time to get serious about bringing it up to standard and getting it water ready after not getting much use the last few years and sitting idle.

    Starting list:
    -replace PSS boots(old/unknown age)
    -fume detector/alarm (suggestions?)
    -auto fire extinguisher engine room (suggestions?)
    -transmission leak-may try some stop leak and see how it looks, the leak appears to be from the input shaft
    -extra bilge pump (big one mounted a little higher for casualties)
    -y valve to engine raw water also for dewatering
    -manual bilge pump broken(repair/replace)
    -rebed underwater fittings
    -empty fuel tanks and borescope
    -install new benches from an old project on bridge
    -properly stow batteries (most are just kept from sliding and not positively retained)

    Long term:
    new interior
    new bridge seating
    strip bottom/repaint
    electronics package
    reseal cabin glass-rubber and sealant joints
    gelcoat repairs+buff

  • #2
    What's your WAR?

    Okay, Mike....

    Now that the boat is home, we need to check in on what your WAR is.

    That is the "Wife Approval Rating," on a standard 0-10 scale, with 10 being she probably likes the boat more than you do, and 0 being next week you either don't have a boat or don't have a wife.

    What's your WAR?
    -- Tim Taylor

    1979 Glasply 21-foot I/O Overnighter w/ 5.0L Volvo-Penta duoprop (Cardinal)
    1982 Glasply 16-foot runabout w/ 50hp Mercury OB (JV Junior)
    1978 Glasply 19-1/2 foot runabout, project boat (Beer Goggles)


    I wrote a song about a tortilla. Well actually, it’s more of a wrap.

    Comment


    • #3
      Never heard that before... hilarious.

      She says 10, and is already frustrated that she cant see photos on this site without a sign in.

      Comment


      • #4
        Mike,
        10! You are a lucky, lucky man.
        Look at Defender Marine for prices for marine equipment. Fireboy auto fire extinguishing systems have a new chemical replacing Halon. Expensive, but good insurance and safety gear. There are also a variety of CO, gas fume, propane, smoke and heat detector's available. Put the batteries in boxes and secure with straps. Repair kits are available for most manual bilge pumps.
        If the underwater fittings, I assume raw water intake and depth sounder transducer devices, are not leaking, I would not rebed them now.
        The cruise liner QE2 moves only six inches for each gallon of diesel fuel that it burns.

        1982 28' Long Cabin "Molly Brown" sweating through a long hot summer. Massive California forest fires fill our sky with smoke. SUP paddlers and kayakers transit the harbor with abandon, thinking they have the right of way over all boats.

        Comment


        • #5
          The firebox system is what I was looking at, doing some figuring on sizing- the price ramps up very fast!

          The only reason I want to tackle rebedding below waterline stuff is that I found a screw missing from the stbd water intake screen. The rest of it is just because if I haven't touched it how do I know? Maybe I'll see how the intake looks off and evaluate at that point.

          So the jury reached a verdict on weight... I pulled 620# of "stuff" off the boat, and Dave scaled it on the way home with his truck when there happened to be a scale where he stopped to meet a friend. 13900# on the trailer with both gas tanks at 5/8 full!

          Comment


          • #6
            My Fireboy Halon system is 35 VH size. The orange light on the electric panel is a Reverse Polarity Test light. Push on and should go out when you release it.
            Last edited by Socal; 09-09-2017, 05:26 PM.
            The cruise liner QE2 moves only six inches for each gallon of diesel fuel that it burns.

            1982 28' Long Cabin "Molly Brown" sweating through a long hot summer. Massive California forest fires fill our sky with smoke. SUP paddlers and kayakers transit the harbor with abandon, thinking they have the right of way over all boats.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks, that's what the light does. Got a lot of cleaning done and stole the stereo from our seaswirl(threw an old one in that), and my wife cleaned/polished glass and a bunch of inside stuff.

              Click image for larger version

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              Here's the battery charger/inverter controller I was talking about, was this factory?

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              • #8
                Looking good Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  Starting list:
                  -replace PSS boots(old/unknown age)
                  -fume detector/alarm (suggestions?)
                  -auto fire extinguisher engine room (suggestions?)
                  -transmission leak-may try some stop leak and see how it looks, the leak appears to be from the input shaft. Save your money, only way to fix properly is replace input seal, requires transmission removal.-
                  extra bilge pump (big one mounted a little higher for casualties) Never mount the bilge pump higher, mount the float switch higher.
                  -y valve to engine raw water also for dewatering If you have to do that to save the boat you have much bigger problems.
                  -manual bilge pump broken(repair/replace) Discard it, waste of money anyway IMHO.
                  -rebed underwater fittings
                  -empty fuel tanks and borescope Won't do much good for the corrosion that comes from the outside.
                  -install new benches from an old project on bridge
                  -properly stow batteries (most are just kept from sliding and not positively retained) Relocate batteries to area between fuel tanks and install battery boxes for them. An 8D battery box will hold 3 group 24 batteries for house, and aft of it is room for 2 group 24 battery boxes for engines. You now have a "3 bank" battery system. Rewire the two battery switches so you can cross connect to start either engine with the batteries and charge batteries with either alternator if you have an alternator failure..

                  Long term:
                  new interior
                  new bridge seating
                  strip bottom/repaint Soda blast bottom to gelcoat. Reseal, apply 1 coat hard bottom in red and 3 coats ablative in blue or black. Will last 7-8 years before recoating.
                  electronics package. Think it through well, try to buy as a "package" to get best price.
                  reseal cabin glass-rubber and sealant joints
                  gelcoat repairs+buff

                  Having worked for the past 12 years "rebuilding" my boat I can only say that the best results come from serious planning and proper equipment purchases. It is very easy to run off "half cocked" and start buying parts before knowing what it is you want to achieve as an end result. I suggest viewing as many 28's as you can to see what can be done with them.
                  Last edited by Bill V; 09-10-2017, 07:07 AM.
                  "Joint Venture" 1978 midcabin 28', twin 2017 Vortec roller cam "bullet proof" 383/6.3L full roller 350hp engines - You name it, I've either replaced it, restored it, rebuilt it, repainted it or repaired it. That's my job now that I'm retired.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Starting list:
                    -replace PSS boots(old/unknown age)
                    -fume detector/alarm (suggestions?)
                    -auto fire extinguisher engine room (suggestions?)
                    -transmission leak-may try some stop leak and see how it looks, the leak appears to be from the input shaft. Save your money, only way to fix properly is replace input seal, requires transmission removal.-
                    extra bilge pump (big one mounted a little higher for casualties) Never mount the bilge pump higher, mount the float switch higher.-I was thinking like 3 inches higher to keep it from routine dunking?
                    -y valve to engine raw water also for dewatering If you have to do that to save the boat you have much bigger problems.maybe I'll skip this one, especially with a big bilge pump.
                    -manual bilge pump broken(repair/replace) Discard it, waste of money anyway IMHO.has a broken tab for the handle, it actually still works. I might steal its thru hull for the extra bilge pump though
                    -rebed underwater fittings
                    -empty fuel tanks and borescope Won't do much good for the corrosion that comes from the outside. Mine look brand new from the outside, no concerns there.
                    -install new benches from an old project on bridge
                    -properly stow batteries (most are just kept from sliding and not positively retained) Relocate batteries to area between fuel tanks and install battery boxes for them. An 8D battery box will hold 3 group 24 batteries for house, and aft of it is room for 2 group 24 battery boxes for engines. You now have a "3 bank" battery system. Rewire the two battery switches so you can cross connect to start either engine with the batteries and charge batteries with either alternator if you have an alternator failure..most of them have boxes that are just unsecured, I found a schematic George drew, I'll bounce it off what you suggested to see where I stand. Right now there are batteries centerline fwd and aft outbd both sides in engine room.

                    Long term:
                    new interior
                    new bridge seating
                    strip bottom/repaint Soda blast bottom to gelcoat. Reseal, apply 1 coat hard bottom in red and 3 coats ablative in blue or black. Will last 7-8 years before recoating. Didn't know it could last that long, that's good news
                    electronics package. Think it through well, try to buy as a "package" to get best price. 100% the plan
                    reseal cabin glass-rubber and sealant joints
                    gelcoat repairs+buff

                    Having worked for the past 12 years "rebuilding" my boat I can only say that the best results come from serious planning and proper equipment purchases. It is very easy to run off "half cocked" and start buying parts before knowing what it is you want to achieve as an end result. I suggest viewing as many 28's as you can to see what can be done with them.

                    Thank you for the thorough reply, I have definitely been guilty of doing that but I think I have a good plan-the only serious money I'm spending at the moment is on safety equipment and mechanical repairs.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Forgot another short list item: the v berth hatch is a mess of sealant and crazed plastic. It's 17" square cutout, is there any reason not to go to a larger hatch if I cant find a 17" I like? I'm also considering glass so I wont have to deal with crazing again. Our seaswirl has a glass hatch and I like it much better.

                      Edit, actual dimensions might be 16 7/8 square.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You'll want to pull the headliner down to check where the structural ribs are before you buy a bigger hatch. There are several ribs that run across the bow on mine I'd think yours will be the same. I'd avoid cutting into them as you may end up with some flexing up there when you walk around.

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                        • #13
                          See if you can have have the plastic replaced by the mfg. or other source. Glass is not a safe option if you drop an anchor on it or worse, step through it. If you can fit through the opening, no need to enlarge it and create the problems that JJC mentions. ��
                          The cruise liner QE2 moves only six inches for each gallon of diesel fuel that it burns.

                          1982 28' Long Cabin "Molly Brown" sweating through a long hot summer. Massive California forest fires fill our sky with smoke. SUP paddlers and kayakers transit the harbor with abandon, thinking they have the right of way over all boats.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Headliner is long gone in the v berth, I don't see any ribs/structure changes. I would be ok with replacing the plexi but it is molded with ribs to the frame. I think it is a cheap replacement. Understand the glass concern, I can stick with plexi/acrylic.

                            Any suggestions if this exhaust support is actually needed? It looks hokey and cluttered-all 4 have similar braces.Click image for larger version

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                            • #15
                              the muffler will be pretty heavy when full of water, so i would brace. just with nicer braces or remove the muffler and you would be good to go
                              1980 2400 Cuddy I/O, 2017 Cummins 4BT coupled to a Volvo DP-SM with F9 Props, and a 2014 Mercury 15HP Pro-Kicker "LOOSE CHANGE"

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