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Glasply Rendezvous August 9-11th Anacortes, Wa
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New Owner - 1978 19' I/O Cuddy

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  • #16
    Every tank that I have removed has had corrosion on the bottom. I would recommend to everyone to remove their tanks and inspect the bottom especially if they are the originals. They corrode from resting on the bilge with water, dirt and who knows what else caught in-between. Most can be saved if caught early enough.
    1981 Hardtop Cuddy Alaskan Bulkhead Rebuild Thread
    1972 HT Cuddy-Rebuild Thread
    8' 650cc Kawasaki powered dinghy

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    • #17
      Originally posted by ericnw View Post
      Thanks, guys! So far the boat is getting a tuneup, all fluids changed, new shift cable, new batteries, carb rebuild, gimbal bearing seal, etc.

      Have a couple other new-found issues to resolve, too. The red dot heater installed on the port side was installed too high. The hoses run along the top of the gunwales and are contributing to overheating due to air in them. Not sure yet what to do about that but thinking of just disconnecting for now.
      if the hose for the heater were plumbed to the proper ports on the engine and the water pump is in good shape, it will fill the heater and help cool the engine, i have seen alot of mechanics hook them up wrong though. one point to note, the fill port for the heat exchanger has to be the highest point in the system
      1980 2400 Cuddy I/O, 2017 Cummins 4BT coupled to a Volvo DP-SM with F9 Props, and a 2014 Mercury 15HP Pro-Kicker "LOOSE CHANGE"

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      • #18
        Originally posted by noluck View Post

        if the hose for the heater were plumbed to the proper ports on the engine and the water pump is in good shape, it will fill the heater and help cool the engine, i have seen alot of mechanics hook them up wrong though. one point to note, the fill port for the heat exchanger has to be the highest point in the system
        Thanks noluck. My dad hooked it up. Good advise and I'll check that out. I've got one of those extended coolant funnels that should allow me to bleed out all the air if it's not too high.

        Talked to the mechanic this morning (Keith @ Blue Ridge Marine) and he thinks that the fuel tank is okay and the fuel in the bilge came out of the the crappy carb. Said there were a ton of air leaks and they are replacing a bunch of parts. Still going to pressure test the fuel tank. Agreed with all that it's not worth risking and I'd hate to break forum rules already. If it needs to be replaced, I think this one will work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTB7NS...v_ov_lig_dp_it For $290 it's probably worth it but the one in there now is 50 gallons and that would be nice too. The one in there now is made by RDS from 5052 aluminum and new in 2004.

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        • #19
          There's been a lot of fuel tanks replaced on GP's due to holes in them from various causes. A leaking fuel tank wouldn't surprise me. Also, the fuel fill hose below decks has been the cause of a lot of leaks since the hose deteriorates over time. We've replaced fuel tanks on our 28' and fuel hoses on our 23'(plus an auxiliary tank than dumped 18 gallons into the bilge and out the drain hole) and in the process now of getting our main tank replaced... weak link.

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          • #20
            Update: got the boat back from the mechanic and I am very happy with the work from Keith and Louis at Blue Ridge Marine. They rerouted the lines to the red dot along the bottom of the gunwhale (previously was along the top) but also found some bits of impeller that were clogging up the cooling system and causing the overheating problem. They installed a new mercruiser shift cable, total carb rebuild, tune up, checked out the gimbal and replaced the gaskets and a bunch of other little things. Itís running really well. After I got it back from them I pulled the fuel tank and sure enough there was a fair amount of corrosion and at least one 1/8Ē hole in the bottom. I debated having another 50 gallon tank custom made but decided to go with the 35 gallon moeller poly tank and installed it yesterday. Itís a perfect fit and good peace if mind.

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            • #21
              Iím going to be nosy here and ask, what did the Moeller tank cost? Looks like a great option!
              -- Tim Taylor

              1979 Glasply 21-foot I/O Overnighter w/ 5.0L Volvo-Penta duoprop (Cardinal)
              1982 Glasply 16-foot runabout w/ 50hp Mercury OB (JV Junior)
              1978 Glasply 19-1/2 foot runabout, project boat (Beer Goggles)


              In filling out an application, where it reads, 'In case of emergency, Notify:' I put 'DOCTOR'.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Binford View Post
                Iím going to be nosy here and ask, what did the Moeller tank cost? Looks like a great option!
                I paid $380 + tax. I could have saved $90 and ordered it from Amazon but they had it in stock at Harbor Marine in Everett (they have a ton of the Moeller tanks there). I wanted to get 'er done and get the boat out on the water for what might have been the last beautiful weekend of the year. Did the tank swap on Saturday and launched the boat at Edmonds on Sunday. My wife was over in Kingston so I made a quick run over there to pick her up and we cruised around a bit.

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                • #23
                  looks like a great day, congrats!
                  1980 2400 Cuddy I/O, 2017 Cummins 4BT coupled to a Volvo DP-SM with F9 Props, and a 2014 Mercury 15HP Pro-Kicker "LOOSE CHANGE"

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                  • #24
                    Boat wouldn't start a couple weekends back- doesn't seem to be getting fuel. Super disappointing as my wife was with me to go set some crab pots. I pulled the hard line at the carb and it was bone dry. If all goes according to plan, I'll put a new fuel pump in on Saturday. I got a Sierra pump off Amazon for about $75 less than all the local parts stores. It's all painted up and ready to install. I'm a little worried that maybe there's a problem with my anti-siphon valve on the new tank. My plan is to pull the fuel "in" line and use a hand pump to try and pull fuel from the tank to make sure it gets to the pump.

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