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23 ' self bailing deck - what would it take?

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  • 23 ' self bailing deck - what would it take?

    Hey all,

    Has anyone gone through the effort to raise the deck of a 23' to make it self bailing ?

    Any good info to share? Photos?

    While my floor and stringers were all done 4 years ago, I have again found a soft spot, about 12x8". While there is no reason the stringers should have issues, if I'm going to spend money on the floor again I'm going to do it for the last time.


    Cheers in advance,

  • #2
    I did it on my 21' boat but haven't gotten it in the water. For a 23' you would want the floor 5" above the water line. Drop your boat in the water and with a normal load mark the water line on the back of the boat. Including raising the floor, you will also have to make a lip inside the doghouse to keep the water out of the bilge and a bulkhead along the transom and bulkhead to keep water out of the cabin. I'll attach some pictures of mine but it would be different with an outboard compared to an I/O. JJC has a 19' with an I/O that he did this to.
    1981 Hardtop Cuddy Alaskan Bulkhead Rebuild Thread
    1972 HT Cuddy-Rebuild Thread
    8' 650cc Kawasaki powered dinghy

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    • #3
      Or buy a 28, they came with self bailing cockpits.
      "Joint Venture" 1978 midcabin 28', twin 2017 Vortec roller cam "bullet proof" 383/6.3L full roller 350hp engines - You name it, I've either replaced it, restored it, rebuilt it or repaired it. That's my job now that I'm retired.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Bill V View Post
        Or buy a 28, they came with self bailing cockpits.
        That or I'm gonna go find a grady white 26' express..... hrmpf

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        • #5
          i made my 23' self bailing but it was while in the process of rebuilding stringers and converting to outboard. i raised stringers about 5" total all the way to the cuddy bulkhead. i have used it for a year now and it works well although the deck is pretty level and sometimes doesnt drain out as well as i would like but it is still better than not being self bailing.

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          • #6
            Thanks .... any photos you could share ...?
            does your boat sit lower aft w/the outboard vs stern drive ?


            Tx..!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by aarinbc View Post

              That or I'm gonna go find a grady white 26' express..... hrmpf
              After pricing a Grady White I think I will keep my GP.
              "Joint Venture" 1978 midcabin 28', twin 2017 Vortec roller cam "bullet proof" 383/6.3L full roller 350hp engines - You name it, I've either replaced it, restored it, rebuilt it or repaired it. That's my job now that I'm retired.

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              • #8
                Lol.

                Yea


                For the price of a grady without rot, I could afford a 28 and a 21 outboard....

                Quite distressing is the 5yr floor I had redone on my 23, is now needing replacement again. And all after new power, wiring, electronics.

                if only that $1000 28 was still avail ... and a 21/23 w/ glass stringers came up ....

                ..I'm spending to much time on CL it would seem.

                Or spend more $ and redo the floor, windows and completely renew my 23.

                Hurmpf.


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                • #9
                  When you replace the floor, use 3/4" plywood and lay it up with 6oz fiberglass and epoxy on both sides or 1/2" plywood with 10oz glass on both sides. Thoroughly soak all edges with epoxy as well as any penetrations you create to fasten it down. Coat the tops of your stringers too. No need for marine plywood, just get good quality exterior grade doug fir. As long as you don't poke any untreated holes in it, the new floor should outlast everything else on the boat.

                  Self bailing is nice to have but takes some effort. It just comes down to how much work it's worth to you.
                  They civilize left, they civilize right, 'til nothing is left and nothing is right. (Ben Rumson)

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                  • #10
                    I must be missing something? My 23' I can take a bucket and rinse the deck down several times while crabbing for example and the water runs to the back goes down into the bilge and either pumps out of comes out when I remove the "BUT PLUG". Water never stands on the deck.

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                    • #11
                      Indeed that is how mine works now as well... and thus i am dependent on functionality of electric bilge pumps.

                      Piece of mind for leaving a boat in the water would be self bailing decks; thus no general reliance on electric pumps (though it does not remove the need to have them).

                      ... would be nice, is all. Yes - costly (time & money).

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                      • #12
                        OK, now I understand!

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