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81 28' Long Cabin work in progress

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  • Originally posted by Binford View Post
    Okay, that’s IT! I’ve got to get out there to check it out.

    I’m always too busy not crashing into someone/thing to really take a good look, but is that your boat up by the shoreside end of the float? And you’re there after work most days? Like about what time maybe?
    Yup, that’s ours. I’ll be out there most of today, called in “boat”. We’re going to go moor at illahee or Blake this evening and then anchor across from the manette bridge tomorrow to watch the fireworks... as long as all goes to plan, ha.

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    • Originally posted by theremikegoes View Post
      Thanks Carl, this winter I want to cut the centers out and flip the inside to the outside- the teak plywood is pretty rough. The doors were rough as well so the original shape became a pile of teak sawdust to uncover nice wood.
      Repinned all the frames and gorilla glued them, they were all lose and floppy.

      Looks great Mike! I had to re-do ours last year. The teak plywood center was totally de-laminating, and like yours, the frames were falling apart. I ordered some 1/4" thick teak from Diamond Teak online, with the frames already separating, it wasn't too hard to pull out the old ply, and glue in the new panel. What did you use for finish?
      Attached Files
      Last edited by nova7163; 06-29-2018, 09:59 AM.

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      • Epifanes clear varnish. 1st, 2nd coats thinned 50% with demineralized spirits, 3rd 25% thinned, 4th straight. I may end up doing like you say and replacing with new, if it has delaminated and isn't just ugly on one side that will definitely happen.

        Did your doors fall apart or just the frames? I tried pulling on the doors a bit to see if I could easily flip the centers, but they were still very solidly together. Was planning on just cutting the retainer lip out of the back to replace the centers.

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        • Originally posted by theremikegoes View Post
          have an issue with the port transmission liking to spit oil out the breather over 2000rpm. I’m suspecting a collapsed hose/clogged screen-it’s the last “original” hose. Probably also try adding a big breather on the dipstick tube and routing the vent over to that as well. Obviously worst case it needs a rebuild but I’m thinking it’ll be fine.
          Put a new hose on it and added a breather on the dipstick tube/teed into the vent. Hose was fine and there was no filter behind the fitting at the lower hose(sounds like 50/50 they have one). Checked raw water inlet and outlet to trans cooler and swapped the impeller as well. The breather 100% fixed the spitting oil issue, but it still runs ~25 degrees hotter than the other side. Stbd trans runs 115 at high 20's cruise and port at just under 140 with the engines synch'd by sound(gauge agrees). The difference bugs me, any suggestions?

          Sidenote: I changed my mind and I'm happy we have mufflers, can easily have a conversation on the bridge on plane and it's surprisingly quiet.

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          • Originally posted by theremikegoes View Post
            Stbd trans runs 115 at high 20's cruise and port at just under 140 with the engines synch'd by sound(gauge agrees). The difference bugs me, any suggestions?
            Where and how are you getting your temperature readings? I installed sending units on both transmissions. I spoke with Mike at Harbor Marine as they built my transmissions and he said "don't worry about transmission as long as temps remain no higher then 160," Mine both run about the same, generally 140-145 at a steady 30mph/3500, At 35mph/4000 temps hit 150 pretty quickly. I need to reprop pretty badly and hope that with a drop in RPM's the temps go down as well.
            "Joint Venture" 1978 28' twin 2017 Vortec roller cam 383/6.3L 350hp engines - You name it, I've either replaced it, restored it, rebuilt it or repaired it. That's my job now that I'm retired.

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            • Well that makes me feel a little better, thanks. Maybe the port prop has a slightly different pitch so it takes more load, it does burn a tiny bit more fuel.

              I don't have temp senders so that was the hottest part on the case I could find using an IR gun, if I remember right the "to" the cooler line fitting was pretty much the same. Might have to add senders, having no indication on the drives does bother me a bit.

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              • Originally posted by theremikegoes View Post
                Well that makes me feel a little better, thanks. Maybe the port prop has a slightly different pitch so it takes more load, it does burn a tiny bit more fuel.

                I don't have temp senders so that was the hottest part on the case I could find using an IR gun, if I remember right the "to" the cooler line fitting was pretty much the same. Might have to add senders, having no indication on the drives does bother me a bit.
                Your tach could be slightly off too, 100 RPM's can easily create your readings and fuel usage. Try running port engine 100 RPM slower and see if temps level out some.
                "Joint Venture" 1978 28' twin 2017 Vortec roller cam 383/6.3L 350hp engines - You name it, I've either replaced it, restored it, rebuilt it or repaired it. That's my job now that I'm retired.

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                • I'm sure the tachs are wrong... when I said synched by gauge I meant the sync gauge not the tachs- I think that cuts the tachs out of the equation right? Someday I'll get the admiral to drive while I play with a photo tach and adjust them, pretty sure they all have fine tune adjustment available.

                  Good point though I can try deliberately loading stbd to see if temps even out.

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                  • Hey, I can drive a boat. Just sayin’....

                    At any rate, I’ll see you down there tomorrow about 4:30.
                    -- Tim Taylor

                    1979 Glasply 21-foot I/O Overnighter w/ 5.0L Volvo-Penta duoprop (Cardinal)
                    1982 Glasply 16-foot runabout w/ 50hp Mercury OB (JV Junior)
                    1978 Glasply 19-1/2 foot runabout, project boat (Beer Goggles)


                    I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you.

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                    • Made the mistake of touching the pressure relief/vent on stbd side and was rewarded with the same “oil out the vent” issue I had on port. Lost about a half a quart at an unknown time east of whidbey island. Got a similar repair cobbled together out of leftover bits from “marine services” at cornet bay, huge thanks to them for putting up with me. They have a huge somewhat organized pile of used bits that saved me a lot of time. I think what happens is the little rubber washer backed by a spring gets cocked and loses its seal. Then since there is a lot of oil splashing the air pressure at that point just blasts oil out. That’s my theory...

                      Tried running the stbd side a little harder this time and now temps are within 10 degrees on each trans at 130-140. The transmissions also seems to run cooler at high 20’s as opposed to 20/just barely on plane.

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                      I’m also ending up 10-20 gallons less than I think I burnt on each fill up so I suspect we’re getting better than 1mpg and my lowrance fuel flow sensors need calibration or mounted with a longer vertical tun(they’re in a ~6” vertical hose run currently).

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                      • You did a great job on your boat there sir!

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